Quite low temperatures for ABS+. Like advertised color is army green, slightly darker compared to what usually is considered as army green. in middle of the test print I increased speed first to 200% and once that was successful increased it further to 300%, could not see any difference between 100%-200%-300% => Recommended temperature range 200-220C, test print done at maximum temperature. I was suspicious of mechanical qualities and strength, but they are very good even filament is transparent, easy to print, looking nice and on top of all quite cheap. Requires increasing retraction from the usual 0.25mm to 0.4mm and enabling SuperSlicer option "wipe while retracting" and setting "extra wipe for external perimeters" set to 1mm. OK, its not magic, its elastomers that leave your prints looking glossy and gorgeous. been able to print large prints with ABS. Very hard filament, not much different compared to PETG, parted printed with this are very rigid, not very flexible. On Z-level where layer print time changes radically there were issues, like shrinkage of whole layer which layer print time was 10x previous layers. Package recommends 220-250C nozzle, 0-60C bed, 50-100% fan and no enclosure. Surface finish was shiny and filament looks very good, beautiful light blue. Also gave recommendation/instruction: Fillamentum: 220-240C nozzle and 50-60C bed. Spool is 100% identical to Sunly PETG I ordered at same time from Amazon in 2020, and both have this ridiculously low 200-220C recommendation, interesting to see if Sunly is actually same filament with same issues. Spool identical to SainSmart (transparent little wider than Filamentum, about same width as Prusament. Also there was no drawback using higher temp, even overhangs were Prints quite nicely. properties of filament have comment about those. Recommended nozzle temperature 215C and bed 50-60C in website. Printed parts have an almost metallic sheen to them, which gives the models a finished look, but can, unfortunately, amplify minor defects due to how consistent the rest of the print looks.
According to Filament-PM 240-260C nozzle, 100-110C bed and needs "Magigoo PC". Filament tested using the 6x temperature tower using PrusaSlicer default speed for three bottom "layers" and 20mm/s for three top layers, and temperatures 215-200-185C. White:Fillamentum ABS Traffic White (alternative: Fillamentum ASA Snow White, not as white, does not print as well, more layer to layer variance). matte and semiglossy. If manufacturer recommended temperature differs After drying filament 24h (not joke) the result was better, however stringing is still major problem. These cookies do not store any personal information. (even better than eSun ABS+, really really good) and printed result is litte transparent as well. provide strong prints, but they look better. We use cookies to ensure that we give you the best experience on our website. Some people report clogging issues with silk, but this isnt something weve experienced. Used 240C and 110C bed and 55C chamber temperature. Generally: Most ABS print nicely, but this one is on it's own category. Since the material changes colors throughout the spool, the speed at which the colors change is entirely dependent on how much material is used during the print. the perimiters overextrude, with a profile which works just fine with > ABS filaments. With Voron I have mainly printed with 0.6mm nozzle Were big fans of low-poly prints in silk, but thats just us. As it's PETG I used textured bed and bed adhesion was OK, but was not enough to hold print (110mm x 160mm x 55mm box, top open, with 10mm rounding on bottom corners) in the print plate, but insteds corners did lift. small figurines etc. Layer to layer adhesion is weak. Color is light green, almost light cyan. 3DJake instructs 195-215C nozzle.
Having a base of PLA, PLA SILK FILAMENT is very easy to use with a very rewarding shiny finish. Because the overall amount of material used wasnt significant, the color change is very subtle and gradually changes from a saturated green to a yellow-green mix. Filament PM's Green ABS) Recommendation 230-240C and bed 90-100C. Glossy finish. For the most part, silk PLA prints just as regular PLA does, and you might be able to use your slicers normal PLA settings. Semigloss or even gloss finish.
In general I would recommend setting at least 65C bed Package: shore hardness 30D (about 86A), 200-220C. PET [], Your email address will not be published. Prints nicely, layer to layer variance little too big for my taste thou. Recommendation: nozzle 240-260C, bed 90-110C,0-30% fan. Interesting to see does this REALLY need Magigoo or will ordinary PEI or PEI+gluestick work. Very pale green as expected. Blue: Filamentworld ABS+ Blue (Alternatives; lighter Fillamentum ABS Sky Blue, darker Extrudr ABS Blue) Shore hardness according to SainSmart is 95A. It looks best on prints with a lot of features, such as sharp edges or tight curves the reflections then pick out these features. Extrudr recommends 40-60mm/s printing speed. In general it seems that they seem to work by just losening the filament feeder gears and using low printing speeds. All printed perfectly and look the same.
Another interesting desktop 3D printer material to try is the color-changing on temperature filament. One positive feature as well; this is ONLY temperature tower I have printed this far, which 55 overhang printed perfectly. Package: nozzle 200-240C, bed 80C. This is "neon green" unlike the Prusament which claims to be. Find him on. I have very small experience of flexible filaments. We wouldnt recommend silk PLA for any mechanically important parts the elastomers that make it shiny affect its strength. Quite saturated teal. Prints with all Devil Design Printed Voron StealthBurner cooling ducts @ 255C & 110C => chamber temp was 52-53C You can simply paint your print using high-gloss paint. Physical properties like Silk Green. by adding fans to transfer heat under the bed to chamber, I have Noulei instructs 195-230C nozzle and 50-80C bed. The slight increase in flexibility may be useful for some prints, but if this is what youre after, a different plastic, such as PETG, may be more appropriate. Not as good as ABS+, for example layer printtime has effect to color. Stringiness is problem, and retraction settings don't seem to have any effect to it. Amazon.de web page shore hardness and printing settings: 95A, nozzle 210-230C, bed 70-80. Vapour smoothing is where you place your print in an enclosure with some solvent vapour that dissolves the surface of the print when done correctly, it can lead to a very smooth finish. 240C almost no stringing, 250C little stringing and 260-270C lots of stringing. Shore hardness 85A and printing settings: 220-250C, bec 50-60C, speed 10-20mm/s. Not good on bridging, 15mm is too much. Requires increasing retraction from the usual 0.25mm to 0.4-0.6mm and enabling SuperSlicer option "wipe while retracting" and setting "extra wipe for external perimeters" set to 1mm. Recommendation: nozzle 210-250C, bed 60-100C. For the price, its definitely worth buying a spool just to experiment if you are interested in making multicolor parts without having to paint or dye your prints or switch material mid-print. Package: nozzle 210-240C, bed 40-60C. Finish is shiny. Printing temperature doesn't have any effect to color or glossiness. Package: nozzle 185-215C, bed 0-45C. These cookies will be stored in your browser only with your consent. First test print was with PrusaSlicer "Generic FLEX" (volumetricly limited to 1.2mm3/s, 1.15 extrusion multiplier => will be printing everything at 1.4mm3/s); where at same conditions (105C bed, 46C chamber) any of the ABS would not suffer from the same. TODO: add photos, PrusaSlicer 2.3 regarding top infill = monotonous. At 240C longer layer print time caused the yellow to be darker (complex structure with lots of horizontal planes => external perimiters on heights with longer layers with lots of solid infill/top infill did look different). Recommended nozzle temperature 185-220C. Used 240C and 110C bed and 55C chamber temperature. Shore hardness 82A and printing settings: 220-260C, speed 30-110mm/s. Weirdly low temperature for ASA. Using a .2mm layer height and using PrusaSlicer default settings, the model used a total of 32.91 grams of filament and printed in just under four hours. So it seems with 0.6mm nozzle, 0.2mm layers (first layer 0.3mm) @ 235C it seems Like "PLA+ Silk Green" filament is softer and more flexible than typical PLAs. Exceptional layer adhesion; when breaking 2 perimiter wide vertical walls, they are very tough to break and when broken mostly seemed to break based on how I twisted, not always following layer lines like with most filament. settings if they exist. Used 260C & 100C. In my limited experience this is not the case, I have ordered Recommendation 200-230C nozzle and 50-60C. thou printouts didn't turn out giganticly flexible compared to 98A. All other temperatures and speed were awful, but 185C and 20mm/s was somewhat tolerable. I have used 225C with good results. If you experience this, its worth going through the usual processes for cleaning your extruder and perhaps checking that youre printing at the correct temperature for your filament (it may need to be a little warmer than PLA). It tends to be a little more flexible and stretchy, and this can affect how it prints. Medium green: Filament-PM ABS Green (Alternative: Fillamentum ABS Turquoise Green) Transparent glossy saturated dark blue. Make sure spool holder is skrewed, not loose - there was spooling issue and i3S Did print otherwise OK but there is too much stringing, and tried 8 all retractions between 0 and 4mm. Temperatures from cardboard box: nozzle 210-235C, heated bed required 70-80C. Marc de Vinck has been tinkering with some favourite music-making accessories for Raspberry Pi, Space Shuttle Discovery Soldering Kit review, An electronics project thats out of this world, Classic magnetic fun updated for the maker age, Loopie lamp's smooth edges transition through light sequences, Convert goo into plastic parts as fast as possible, NanoRobotGeek's beautiful sculpture reacts to its surroundings. Recommended nozzle 215-240C and 100-110C bed (notice! This website uses cookies to collect data for advertising purposes and improve user experience. With a wide range of different silk filaments on the market, and each one having a different blend of PLA and elastomers, its hard to pinpoint the cause of this. However with high chamber temperature (55C and above) seems to work well. Filament PM says that this is hard to print, but printed 240C nozzle and 110C bed (to increase chamber temperature) Recommendations: nozzle 250-265C. PLA Polylactic Acid Brands/Shops: SUNLU, Enotepad, Amolen, MIKA3D, CC3D, etc. The best thing about PLA Silk Filament is that it looks so dazzling straight from the printer that it doesn't need any painting. Dried properly before printing, and was surprised for this cheap PETG: printed very well, not any kind of issues, there was not even warping on my first print, which was 15 hour printout. Tends to caube "blobs" (collects filament to outside of nozzle and at some point "drops" the collected blob to printed part). exactly same fro between 225C to 255C, and even 265C was only marginally worse. Black: Fillamentum ABS Traffic Black (Alternatives: more matte finish and higher temperature resistance: Filament-PM ABS-T Black / Fiberlogy ABS Onyx for "sparkly" use cases) nice top and bottom surfaces - I have parts with top surface ironing and I can't see or feel which surface is top and which bottom. Dark green: Devil Design ASA Racing Green (Alternatives: Filament-PM ABS Petrol Green, Formfutura ABS Dark Green) Finish: 220C matte, 230C matte/semigloss, 240C semigloss/glossy and above glossy. General: According to 3DJake.com 190-220C & 40-60C. Printed very nice at 240C. Amazon.de web page shore hardness and printing settings. In addition of bed housing being weak, I tend to change temperature few times during printing to see does In Voron Discord some people have been warning that Amazon picks up whatever filament manufacturer randomly. Everything is compromise :) can't always find good filament in good colors, and sometimes when one finds perfect color filament other qualities suck. Similar to Neon Green and Ultramarine Blue; tends to have bed adhesion issues and also similar issues requiring 10-12h drying of filament before printing. In spool it says 230-250C. Surface finish is semigloss (or matte with little gloss) with mentioned settings - with these settings layer printing time doesn't have huge difference to glossiness, but difference can be seen. Prints very nicely at 250C, haven't tried other temperatures. I got best results using modified SainSmart TPU (nozzle 230C, bed 70C, Extrusion multiplier 1.1, 80% fan speed, Max volumetric speed 2.5mm/s[didn't touch speeds itself, this will limit it enough with 0.6mm nozzle]), thou benchy smoke pipe was just pile of molten filament, but otherwise benchy was perfect minus some some stringing (not bad, many PETG produce worse stringing). My dryer needed little "spacer" to make space for the spool. I assumed they were wet from factory but 14h @ 70C didn't change the results. Very dark glossy green. Prints nicely, very even layers. So need to observe this when printing next time with this filament using smooth PEI sheet. Prints that use more material will change color at a faster rate than prints that only use a small amount of material. I was impressed with the overall quality of the material, and with a little bit of planning before a print (material usage, transition colors, etc. All Filamentum ABS colors I have tried are strong, and no boring matte finish. Prusa not making this one, this is made by Filament PM, and their Pearl Green is the same filament. When printed with PrusaSlicer's "Generic PLA" profile and 190C the end result was matte. This filament is weird what comes to settings, the bottom layer can be under extruded while Your email address will not be published. If you want high-gloss prints, silk PLA is a great choice, but there are a few alternatives: PET and PETG are both a little shinier than PLA, though not as shiny as most silk filaments. PETG requires higher temperatures so without enclosure it would be really hard to print large prints like speaker parts without warping. that they were printed too hot => so try next time 215-210C???. When used well, silk filament produces stunning prints straight off the print bed no need for finishing or painting. Does not print as well as niceABS. Light green: Filamentworld ABS+ Neon Green* (Alternative: Filament-PM ABS-T Yellowgreen) Perimeters glossy, top between glossy and semiglossy. Needs more printing to get understanding of this weirdly behaving filament.
Printed XXXX @ 210C. Recommended: 200-235C nozzle and 50-60C bed. Color is "annoying", very vibrant baby blue - maybe if one likes baby blue color doesn't at all match to the color on Amazon/eBay photos on advertisements (those tend to be something which generally is called Royal Blue). pulled so hard that spool holder did fall from shelf and caused small crack to display box, need to print new one Light gray with glitter, 2-3x as much glitter as in Prusament for example. To get a feel for what this transition looked like on a model with a higher level of detail, I printed out the Aquaticus Dragon by Makerbot on the Mingda Rock 3 Pro. Prints OK, may cause stringiness. Upgrade your ideas subscribe to HackSpace magazine! filaments were very stringy. to be OK if I keep the volumetric speed below 3.6mm3/s (with the 1.15 extrusion multiplier it totals to ~4.3mm3/s in the PrusaSlicer visualization). Recommended 240-255C and 80-105C. Colour is light green and surface quality was good. And it seems layer to layer adhesion was better, but still not "perfect" even at higher temperature. With those setting 10mm bridges perfect, 15mm OK and 20mm clearly too much. Not tried yet. Formfutura instructs to use 240-260C nozzle, 70-100C bed and gives weird Yes/No recommendation for enclosure.
This works particularly well if you need to sand or fill parts of your print first. Printed the first 4 colours at 215C. Recommended 200-230C nozzle and 20-60C bed. moisture issues, which riddled both of the semitransparent (Neon Green and Ultramarine Blue) and Carmine Red, and to get decent results tens of hours drying was needed. Need to be dried before use, high tendendy to have issues otherwise (and even dried this filament still has issues). Printed nicely with the SainSmart profile, and 200% was still printing OK, which was surprice considering how soft the filament is. Fiberlogy: nozzle 250-270C and 90-110C bed. General: 3DJake.com defines 220-250C and 95-110C. Temperature range is on the low end; 180-200C. Extreme bed adhesion, do not use with smooth PEI; will rip pieces from PEI Good filaments, print very nicely. Filament is bright translucent green with glossy finish. Weak bed adhesion. differences in warping and 1st layer adhesion => so only exceptional To test this theory, I set up an experiment to see how much influence over the transition speed I could have by altering the properties of the print. Printed with Voron using LGX Lite extruder and Dragon HF nicely. Stringiness was high for a PLA filament. and I use also 0.8mm, 1.0mm nozzles, and rarely 0.4mm and 1.4mm Matte white filament. 0.6mm nozzle. Have seen in Voron discord mentions that hard to detach from bed if one let's bed to cool. All this after oepning factory closed pack and drying 18h at 60C. found reliable way to print large prints with PETG. nozzles. time cause slightly visible differences between layers. Recommended 195-225C nozzle, 0-60C bed. about zero change for the center part to stick to bed enough. This page contains my notes from different filaments. He plays with electronics and grows mushrooms, but hasn't yet combined the two. My definitions of glossiness: Bed adhesion weak even with 60C bed and 225C nozzle. Printed parts are so smooth; smooth perimeters and really Recommended 230-250C nozzle and 100-110C bed.
document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); This website uses affiliate links from which we may receive commission. Temperatures are same As "PLA+ Silk Green" so I decided to try printing this close to bottom of temperature range @ 215C and this was mistake: layer adhesion was not at all same level as "PLA+ Silk Green" @ 230C. Few times Dark Gray (and black but it would be very difficult to notice differences in black) and it has been same every time. I'm very doubtful about the bed temperature recommendation, it look quite high for PETG. Filament contains some glitter, and it appears to be yellow. Out of these cookies, the cookies that are categorized as necessary are stored on your browser as they are essential for the working of basic functionalities of the website. Bed adhesion was not the greatest; both edges of temperature tower lifted. Not tried yet. Color is very close to army green, but little more saturated. All Rights Reserved. Printed nicely with the SainSmart profile. Larger structures seem to stick, but for example if printed object has "O"-letter and the center is 2mm x 3mm there is Very stringy. Clearly softer than the other 95A filaments. So these require some special print settings. Print subscriptions to HackSpace magazine start from just 4, saving you a big chunk of money on the cover price. In some models you can just the "net" from few layers, but in this model "spacer" was better option. First print was absolute horrible - either there is moisture in filament or this black PETG is much worse than the Blue or Lila variants. Is made by a variety of biopolymer material with a silk appearance that keeps the outstanding PLA 3D printing features such as non-irritating odour, layer adhesion, UV resistance, etc. Formfutura instructs to use 235-255C nozzle, 80-100C bed and enclosure. Print quality pretty nice, not much stringing. By Ben Everard. This may or may not be same than then Prusament Transparent PETG. 230C nozzle worked fine, but 225C might be worth checking, at least with copper nozzle. Some reviews complained about layer and bed adhesion, but at my settings neither is problem. After trying and getting disappointed Spectrum PLAs this was positive surprise. Silk filament can create excellent-looking prints, but it can also highlight every imperfection in the print, depending on how its used. Very glossy black, which prints well. This filament tends to be little "stringy", and don't like to be printed above 205C, even manufacturer says 190-230C. Package: nozzle 230-255C, bed 60-80C, Not tried yet. Did create clog/jam at 240C and 100C, and didn't stick to bed very well either. At 210C there was "stringiness", next time trying to print 200C. Filament-PM tries to warn that this is somehow difficult to print, but with Voron it print very nicely. I have tested lots of ABS/ASA filaments to find the best ones for me. matte = no reflection, e.g. Surface finish is glossy and color still nice saturated light blue. When small printing speed used produces semigloss results. The filament I used is Enotepad Silk PLA+, it is currently available for sale directly from their site as well as on Amazon. Dark copper: Filament is pretty good imitation of copper, thou I don't know why "dark" copper, as it's not dark for copper, actually little lighter than real copper. Additional recommendations from website: Flow rate 110-130%, can be printed fast (they mention >80mm/s. Recommendation: nozzle 220-260C. ), I was able to make some very interesting-looking parts. All colors had issues in large layer print time change, unless I cranked the fan up to 60-70%, which is really high fan for ABS & Stealthburner combo. Necessary cookies are absolutely essential for the website to function properly. 105C bed is too warm for some shapes and creates large elephant foot on
Semiglossy finish. Finish is between as layer adhesion is not great in any of the Prusament PLAs. 
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