difference between vallejo model and game color

By First, I tried Goblin Green and Escorpena Green on a WePrintMiniatures Leprechaun on Pogo Stick. CapnBloodbeard, January 17, 2012 in Malifaux Discussion. But yes, in the majority of instances, the colours were great and went onto my miniatures without any trouble whatsoever. I see Vallejo do About 220 bottles in the Model colour range and 60 or so in Game colour, but I have many questions: Are these the same range in different bottles ? Other than that, I mix them myself. Comments are always welcomed. Pasted as rich text. Of course I do end up with leftover paint on the pallet, but thats a small price to pay for proper paint consistency. Flesh tones are okay, I would say Scale75 has the best flesh colors from what I've used, either that or Vallejo Panzer Aces flesh tones. Can't comment on the difference between alchohol based and acylic metalics. I'm especially interested in the various flesh tones: Dead Flesh vs Deck Tan, Dwarf Flesh vs Dark Rose, Bronze Flesh vs Dark Flesh, Filthy Brown vs Medium Flesh, etc. Its worth noting that the paints well be testing in this review come from the Vallejo 72.172 Game Color Mega Paint Set. Press J to jump to the feed. I myself love the browns and the blues and even rather like the greys and whites in this range, but would quite happily never touch the yellows ever again. The good thing about Vallejos Game Color range is that they work fairly well with airbrushes so much so that even a complete airbrushing novice like me can appreciate them. I have a ton of things I could paint. They also say you can use alchohol to take off stray bits of paint. I'm jonesing for the new Reaper master colors. I honestly think my brain rot began by using those when I was new to this hobby as a lad. I've got the GC metalics, but prefer to use Testors Fantasy Acryl metalics. I figured if they are listed there they are used somewhat often. Rob has spent most of the last 15 years playing World of Warcraft and writing stories set in made-up worlds. I think the lesson here is that if youre tempted to try some new techniques, do so with paints youre more familiar with. I noted above that, on the whole, paints in the Game Color range are quite thin. After having to thin progressively more and more each time I used them, it became easier just to drop 2 coats of Vallejo and not have to pray for the right consistency. I'm going to agree and disagree with Whiz. Google has informed me you cannot currently buy this particular set as Vallejo (like many companies) are currently suffering from some big supply issues, but all of the colours that were in it are still readily available for you to purchase. I'm actually not concerned about matching GW colors, but I don't want to buy both Pale Flesh and Light Flesh if they really are the same color. Also, when I eventually decide on colours (bloody hard to decide, once I choose a colour then I have to pick one of a dozen or more shades! Youve got the consistency of the Vallejo Game Color paints right and they go on beautifully but that can sometimes be a little more of a battle than you may first assume it will be. Don't do it. Thanks for the offer but shipping and all from Canada it'd be better just to order them here. So youd likely miss them if the search function of your favourite site isnt too clever.

These days I still have a few dozen GW paints and just picked up their new washes after hearing so much good stuff about them, still have the full Game Color but have also added about half the P3 range and plan on picking up the other half in time. If you decide that Vallejo are the paints for you, you might want to consider buying yourself a vortex mixer to save your arm. It all depends on the colour I need at the time! The oranges are awful also. Pasted as rich text. I don't have any problem with the Model Color chipping once I have put a good brush-on matte varnish over the model, though the color does lose some billiance, whereas the Game Color starts much brighter and so varnish brings the color down a bit, but it still satys a bit bright. I also use oil based enamels, artists inks ans any thing else I have happened to find works for me. Be wary, though: whilst you might suspect you actually need a reasonable amount of water to get these paints to their optimum consistency, you do not. What a bargain. For example I'd recommend Army painter and secret weapon washes over Vallejo, a couple GW basecoats such as red and yellow over Vallejo opaques and so on. Just remember if searching for these on your favourite hobby stores, its Game Color, not Game Colour. But I can't decide if Vallejo model or vallejo game paints are better? it was Dry! Theyre priced very similarly to alternatives, such as Games Workshops Citadel Colour range, so you wont be out of pocket swapping your regular paints out for a few of these. Im not saying this is the fault of the paint its probably as much my own inexperience but its worth bearing in mind. Game Color flesh tones are fine but nothing special IMO, they're a little gummy and weird to work with though. Model colors do not have the hard surface additive. Reds, yellows and oranges are, once again, the main culprits. I started with GW and still have some of the first generation Citadel paints & inks that are still kicking like 20 years later. There are a number of VGC, VMC, VMA and VGA sets to choose from iirc so if you like that idea I'll happily look through and recommend some. There are some standout colours that work really well or look really good though, such as Game Colour/Air Charred Brown for a rich brown or VMA Hull Red to shade your reds. My videos from exploring abandoned buildings, 40k battle reports and airsoft. I've just learned that the hard way. You can post now and register later. Don't do it. Vallejos whites and light greys Wolf Grey, Ghost Grey, Arctic White and Dead White are excellent. If you are used to Citadels, go with the Game Colors. The do look orange under incandescent light, but look great under muted florescents, just like you'd find in a game store or convention hall. Hmmm, Model colour does have a tendency to rub off before you have time to seal it. And I certainly don't use the metallics. This makes them perfect for gradually shifting or building colour on the surface of a miniature. If you could spare the time, all of your thoughts would be very useful as I'm sure you are very experienced with these paints. As such, its very difficult to try and slap a catch-all conclusion on such a dynamic and varied paint range. I still loath the silly dropper bottles Vallejo use. I'd recommend Vallejo Model Air (VMA) and Vallejo Game Air (VGA) over the non-air ranges even if you don't use an airbrush. My collection includes a good number of each line, quite a few Pro paints, and a few straggler GW's (all of which are now in nice dropper bottles so I don't have to throw them around to open those aweful old jars). As far as I remember, the Game Colour are the more cartoony colours/vibrant, bright etcAlmost a copy of the Citadel colours. If I had all of those 220, I'd probably never use more than half of them. On the base of the figure above, you can see where the paint has smeared on the base, as opposed to applying properly. Game colors are meant to be analogs of Citadels. Re: Vallejo Model color vs Game color paints. They are thin, and are designed to be used to build up multiple thin layers of paint on a miniature, or to be blended with other colours in order to create smooth transitions between colours and shades. The majority of the paints in the range excluding the metallic paints are probably most comparable in consistency to Citadel Layer paints. Not asking what colour scheme - that ones my problem. If you get the opportunity to try them out, make sure you do so. Does one range offer better pigmentation/permanence and Flow than the other ? Do I need to get foundation paints for base colours? I figure Malifaux lends itself particularly well to earthy tones, thus would the model range be better than the game range? From beginners who have never held a brush to pros who have been painting for years. ? Upload or insert images from URL. As such, the end result was a bit of a mess. Bleah. I figure the game ones are better suited to more sci fi wargames. I am very new to airbrushing (I started using one about a week ago and it made me very cross) and, I will confess, Im also extremely bad at it. An excellent alternative to most game-brand colour ranges and a solid rung up on the painting ladder, Vallejos Game Color range will see you right. I use both model and game color. Their black here is a much more blue-black than, say, Citadels Abaddon Black as an example. I find it makes the models pop a bit more on the table. But, if you want to continue to grow as a painter and hobbyist, youre one day going to have to take the plunge and leap from the Citadel nest. anyone else use Coat d'arms paints? To see our up-to-date list of the best paints for your miniatures, just click the image above. Overall, its a pretty mixed picture: some of the paints are fantastic for airbrushing, others arent so good. Welcome to the board, ramblers are always welcome! A couple of colours Bone White, Orange Fire , and the yellows in the range spring immediately to mind come out very unevenly and can be a little lumpy. Overall, model colors seem to be the most popular among the painters I've talked to. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts. I like game color, but for flesh I use vallejo panzer aces flesh base and flesh highlight. I have 40 pots of colours and washes on my painting table, but I only use maybe half of those 99% of the time. Seems to work very well for me. Vallejo Model Air are great for metallics. Is there a reason to have both? Something to note with the range if you are a long-time Citadel user looking to shake things up are that many of the colours are equitable to Citadel paints, so you neednt worry about having to change from one paint scheme to another mid-army, or some of your figures not quite matching the other.

Youll need to use the smallest amount of thinner you can, and then gradually add small, individual drops of red to get the consistency just right. You could buy a 100 bottles of vallejo paint at full retail and still pay less than the full set. I have some of the Game colors but haven't tried the Model colors since no one here sells them and I'd have to order them. what. Click this link & buy your hobby stuff from Element Games for the UK & Europe to support FauxHammer.com Use Code FAUX2768 at the checkout for double reward points.

Anyone know the big difference between the 2 beside the label? They're good for the price per volume and range of colours but definitely on the glossy side so I still prefer to use Vallejo Airs where possible, but they have their uses. If I were doing Perdita I would use something like Cold Grey and Regal Blue for jeans, bloody red and white for a pink shirt, and bonewhite and some sort of brown for her hat. The vast majority of the paints in the range go on as smooth as silk and work excellently with water. This article is part of our series looking into the best paints for Miniatures & Models. As with just about every aspect of this hobby, certain people will love parts of this range, whilst others wont. I use a combination of both. Can't stand GW flesh colors, overall I like Reapers, & both Vallejo brands. 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I'll hit up the LGS that sells VGC and see if he can't talk his supplier into slipping a bottle or 2 in with his next order. You will want some of the model colors eventually, but start with what you know. To begin with, I tested a couple of paints through an airbrush. If you don't get anything else, buy the Smoke. I'm always trying different combinations. EDIT: stay away from vallejo flesh colours. Brother Captain, Resident Spokesman for Idiots. Neither range has inks, though there is a range of transparent colors in the Model color line. Most of the paints are a semi-gloss when they dry, some are gloss, some are matte. Soo back to the point ( no really this time ) I really need help on choosing the right series of colour to change to, and would appreciate all of your views and feelings on the Vallejo range of colour. Sorry for getting 2 big posts (so far) to read through ; p. edit: Here's a shot of my paint collection from a while ago, it's increased since then but this gives a rough idea. There is absolutely nothing wrong with mixing the two ranges, so I'd recommend you pick whichever colors you like best from each range and build your own collection. I sold my complete Game Colors set awile back but there were a couple paints in that set tha I rebought, just cause I liked them alot. Given how good Vallejos Metal Color Airbrush range is, this shouldnt really have been a surprise. It just takes several more coats. In general, it's easy enough to go for a mid-range tone and lighten or darken by mixing - it just gets harder to replicate exact shades, though I find that's not really an issue when highlighting. What I'm more interested in is the color choices. The transtion from one to the other will be easy, since they are colors you are already familiar with. I love the colors, but hate the consistancy. Clear editor. I think it comes down to the amount of pigment in the colour. As youd expect, though, some colours are better than others. They are great. Also, Game Colors are formulated with an agent that gives them a hard shell when applied to plastic or metal miniatures. Every aspect of this hobby is extremely subjective, so Ill end this review with this: Vallejos Game Color paints are an excellent alternative paint range. I use GW fleshy colours instead (transfered into nifty. Which paints to go for - Vallejo model or game. Do I need to get foundation paints for base colours? As youd expect, though, some colours base easier than others. They even have similar names for the paints. Display as a link instead, First off, Model colors were developed for the Historical Modeling crowd, while Game colors were made for, well, gamers. In my experience, Game Color have a big problem with the medium. Flesh tones are wierd. That would bring the price closer to $2.60 a bottle. when GW started making bad paint i found these guys, they were citadels original manufacturer apparently, and they have kept making the same paint with a different name. A new project on the horizon and youre considering trying something new? I used to be a big fan, but when I compared Game Color with Citadel, I could really notice the difference. I don't think I've painted two minis with the same flesh recipe. If you like what were doing here you could really help encourage more content with a share on any social media platform. I prefer model colour over game because they are thicker. (I also use Doc O'Brien's weathering powders.). Completely agree. Warhammer 40,000 Imperium Delivery 1: Issues 1-2 Review, Warhammer Imperium Magazine Issues 11 14 Contents Confirmed. Closed captioned for the thinking impaired. I probably don't use half of mine on a regular basis, either. ). Everything from tabletop wargames to board games, display pieces or just for fun! It's always easier to thin paint then thicken it. Being that I've got a AC hobby paint shaker, the Model Colors are no problem for me when it comes to shaking them. I looked in to some of the bigger sets but it looks like it's cheaper to just buy them all individually.

The Reaper flesh tones are very nice. Theres absolutely nothing wrong with this whatsoever, Citadel make great stuff. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account. minimo airbrushing airtex vallejo beauti

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