Thanks for the info and links. But despite its almost primitive simplicity, the high performance and efficiency of the tools is surprising. Watch a video on how to set up a Japanese hand plane. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); Copyright Labois Blog 2022 | Poltica de privacidad | Aviso legal though it has only less than 300 members the knowledge is quite deep and people are very helpfull. Is it OK to copy projects from the magazine? The wood is only 3/4 inch thick so two pieces will be glued together for a thickness of 1.5 inches. Line B. And I've bought several books and videos on planing that have helped me immensely.
Derechos: Podrs ejercer tus derechos de acceso, rectificacin, limitacin y suprimir los datos en este formulario as como el derecho a presentar una reclamacin ante una autoridad de control. They're using very straight grained wood and they dont mill, but split the piece, than hang them to dry for several years. The sole of a Japanese plane contacts the workpiece at only two points ahead of the blade, with a hollow of about 164 " between them [Drawing]. When removing high spots from the side grooves, concentrate on the upper end only, keeping the width at the mouth intact. 
Even so, the intention of these centenarian tools is to face any task of general brushing and smoothing. What kind of wood is best for this Japanese hand planes? However, the plane functions fine and is holding up. .hide-if-no-js {
Lay the body on its side and mark the angle of the planes iron. <
Such a grain orientation allows the plane to glide over the wood more smoothly, and wear on the sole is reduced. The chip breaker or sub-blade is not necessary for the plane, but I will add one for demonstration. These ones are also flat-sawn: http://dougukan.jp/contents-en/index.php?id=222. >>. We have created these special content collections organized to give you a deep dive into a range of topics that matter. If you are looking for a "ready to go out of the box" plane, then a Japanese plane is probably not what you want. Nowadays, it is easy to find this type of tool. When you purchase a new Japanese hand plane, you receive a kit of parts. If you have the time and you are interested in a wooden plane you might also consider making a Kernov style wood plane. I am making my barchelor work in university, its about plane with adjustable cutting angle. First, remove and sharpen the blade. Line D. Mark a line square across the side of the plane, starting from the foot of the line from Line C. Line E. Transfer the line from line E across the top of the stock.
This forum post is now archived. By now you may be wondering why anyone would go through all this fuss to set up a Japanese hand plane. The flat face of the iron is placed on the Line B. The flat bar is a cheap, soft metal which will make the wedge of the blade while the saw blade will add thickness between the soft and hard metal. The combination of both is optimal. Using planer on board with a long ribbon of wood. Overall, I spent about 4 hours making the plane, although had to wait several days for drying glue. <
Once I cracked a blade tapping it out and had to regrind the bevel, I started thinking about other options for future planes. Keep repeating this process, removing the high spots in the throat until the cutting edge of the blade drops to within a couple of millimeters above the mouth opening. They have no grip, or tote, and there is no fine adjustment using a threaded shaft. I can see why the need for really stable timber is a good position to work from on the plane. The bottom should be perfectly flat at this stage like picture #4. The body of a Japanese plane is called a dai (pronounced "die"). Im still in the tool acquisition stage and need to get a plane (or three). Their simple design, without mechanical blade adjusters, has changed little over hundreds of years. Big? With its basic, rectangular form, the traditional Japanese plane is representative of a lot of the aesthetic that informs traditional Japanese design. Click for full details. It is sort of an experimentation. Please enable Strictly Necessary Cookies first so that we can save your preferences! You can find out more about which cookies we are using or switch them off in settings. If you decide to go with Western metal planes, buy either LN, LV, or Clifton, or go for vintage (pre-WWII) Stanley, Millers Falls, Sargent, etc. Graphite left behind in the throat indicates high spots that need further trimming. Also, the other items I have (workbench, vises, etc.) I was interested in maybe getting a Japanese plane to start with. You work much closer to the wood with the Japanese planes than with the Western styles. The first step is to cut out, to a maximum depth of about a milimeter a shallow rabbet in the sole exactly corresponding to the outline of the mouth. Just glue a piece of thick paper to the blades bed. Suzuki-ya 510-409-0217suzukitool.comHida Tool & Hardware Co. 510-524-3700hidatool.comWoodcraft 800-225-1153woodcraft.comPlane floats and rasps: Lee Valley 800-871-8158leevalley.com. A hand-forged blade and chip breaker may not fit together perfectly at first. It is possible that as the wood dries over the years, the sole of the plane can become slightly hollowed. There is no front knob, and no metal striking button. If mainly soft woods, then Japanese planes make good sense; for hard wood, somewhat less good sense (this is not to say that Japanese planes won't work on hard woods -- they do -- just that they tend to be more oriented toward softer woods). A Japanese hand plane is also known as a Kanna.
Heres how. The blade is around 4 inches long and 2 inches wide. Now is time the square the body by planing the sides, top and bottom. Still, you can find them in sizes similar to Western planes [Photo A]. M Lines. on Introduction. My preference is for the Western style (nothing "wrong" with Japanese planes, just personal preference). This kind of fine adjustment, removing tiny shavings of material at a time, can need to be repeated dozens of times. Also, the cost of a Japanese plane is significantly less than a similarly sized Lie-Nielsen, which is a bit of a consideration. this link is to an external site that may or may not meet accessibility guidelines. Any planeyou buy from LN should be ready to plane whisper-thin shavings right out of the box; their quality control is very good, but if not, take/send it back for a replacement. Now draw a line to mark the beveled back of the iron on the side of the plane body.
Lay the iron centered on top of the stock as shown, and trace its width to establish the width of the rabbets. The blade differs from that on a Western plane in other ways, too. While the one in the middle is the plane I make in this instructable. You should leave about 0.5 mm of clearance between the sides of the chipbreaker and these lines so that it is possible to make small adjustments in the placement of the chipbreaker in the finished plane. The grain should run parallel to the sole of the plane or slant slightly down toward the iron. 
The layout of the blade is set between 40-45 , they has a wide of 36-40 mm and a thickness of 4mm.
In this way, we get a movement that allows working for hours without a great effort on your arms and legs. Many of them are made by hand from wood professionals, according to their needs and preferences. The measurements are available in pic #2. And, if this process makes you nervous, your tool vendor can point you in the right direction for additional guidance.
Reading between the lines of your post, I gather that you have relatively little or no previous woodworking experience. Copyright 2022 Meredith Corporation. Another consideration is what type of woodworking are you going to do, and what kind of wood do you expect to be using, in the main? A longer sole ahead of the blade helps steady the plane on the workpiece at the start of the stroke. Would anyone recommend a Japanese plane for a beginner, or should I just bite the bullet and get a Lie-Nielsen? 
Keeping this cookie enabled helps us to improve our website. Your email address will not be published. Let Mother Nature be your co-designer as you build dazzling projects with wavy edges, bristly burrs, bark inclusions, and other flaws that give wood a look of unrefined beauty. Kinda blowing my mind here. In traditional Japanese woodworking, craftsmen do not use sandpaper. In Japan, plane bodies were traditionally made using the wood of the Kashi tree, a kind of evergreen white oak. On most smoothing planes, the sole contacts the wood at the toe of the plane and just in front of the mouth. Because of its high hardness, there is very little wear on the sole of plane. When chiseling out the waste, you must use your eye and the C and K Lines that you marked on the sides of the body, to cut the bevels and the cheeks of the throat accurately. Blessed with an eye for potential, David Willett looked at his dark, unfinished 112-car garage built in 1956 and saw the bones of a workshop. If so (and even if not so), then I highly recommend that you buy a GOOD QUALITYhand plane as your first one, so that you have a solid base line on which to judge the quality and function of the rest of your plane acquisitions. I then tested the high angle plane on purpleheart, a very hard, tricky wood, and sweetgum, an interlocking grain wood that tears out, and the plane took off fine shavings leaving a nice glossy finish. UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month. The width of the planes mouth depends on its use. Some Japanese planes have soles about the same size as Western planes. Until that time, surfaces were smoothed with the so-called spear planes, called yari ganna. Converts from Western hand planes insist the steel in a Japanese plane provides a smoother finish on their work, with additional tactile feedback and an intimate connection with the workpiece. very nice but body of wooden plain should be quarter sawn, not flat sawn, with grain running vertically. Reply Enter now for your chance to win more than $2,000 worth of woodworking equipment from Woodpeckers. If you are going to be using mainly domestic hard woods, then Western style planes are probably a better bet. Unfinished garage becomes a woodworking haven. In addition, they remain sharp for longer than white steel. Clark & Williams, Steve Knight, and ECE all make excellent modern wooden hand planes. In fact, the only material I bought was the epoxy. I use Japanese planes 80% of the time. | Poltica de cookies | Todos los derechos reservados. Line F. Then, 24 mm toward the heel of the plane from line F, mark a line square across the top. On the other hand, if we will need to do hard work to extract much material, it is better to opt for upper blade angle. Comment * document.getElementById("comment").setAttribute( "id", "a2176d22f1c2f6b1c038c20f4b816fd1" );document.getElementById("a77b89825f").setAttribute( "id", "comment" ); Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. So use a blank in Kashi wood, or a well seasoned blank from a species with similar properties, such as red beech, hornbeam, or fine grained maple. The hollow reduces the surface area contacting the sharpening stone, making flattening the back of the blade easier before sharpening the bevel. Note: Since the plane cuts on the pull stroke, the front and back of the plane are opposite of Western planes. With these tools, achieving a truly flat surface first became possible. I really appreciate the ingenuity and execution. I would be interested in how well the epoxy laminated blade works and if it is holding up.
The wood is dried and milled specifically to be flat and stable in flooring. As with sharpening any blade, flatten and polish the back before focusing on the bevel. Lines H and I. The board for the body, or stock must be first be cut to length and made true and square on all six sides. There are special planes used for shaping the bottom of the plane, although I just use the planes blade at a 90 degree angle in a scraping motion.
When making a plane, start out with a slot of about a half a millimeter. The "common plane" comes in different widths. This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google, Scraper plane leaves surface rougher than smoothing plane, Editor's Letter: Technology and the future of woodworking. Hereare some hand woodworking tool links that you might find useful: http://www.cianperez.com/Wood/WoodDocs/Wood_How_To/INDEX_How_To.htm, http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan0a.html, http://homepage.mac.com/galoot_9/galtprog.html, http://www.jonzimmersantiquetools.com/index.html. The thick blade holds a super-sharp cutting edge, the hallmark of a Japanese hand plane [Photo C]. The right position for the blade to sit(pic #4) is about 1/8 inch from the mouth opening. Transfer the profile of the back of the iron onto the top of the plane block, Line J. The two ends of the plane body, or dai, are named "atama" for the front, or toe, and "shiri" for the back, or heel. We shadowed two experienced makers and installers of custom cabinetry to bring you simple tips and tricks that will keep your built-in projects (and your sanity) on the bubble.. on Introduction, I tried different expoxys and found the best one was one call weldbond but you must make sure to clamp after you epoxy and you let cure for 24 hours. To do this we will use the corresponding Western hand planes. The major difference from western planes is the Japanese plane is pulled, not pushed. How many degrees? Therefore, the first step is to make the planes blade.
Because of their minimal height and low center of gravity, the planes ride well on wood and tend to wobble less than their Western relatives. If you had to recommend three, which hand planes should I start with? Informacin adicional: En la Poltica de Privacidad de Labois encontrars informacin adicional sobre la recopilacin y el uso de su informacin personal por parte Labois, incluida informacin sobre acceso, conversacin, rectificacin, eliminacin, seguridad y otros temas. The thick, sharp blade and chip breaker work as a team to create thin shavings when properly fit into the dai. Finally, set the depth and lateral position of the cutting edge with light taps on the blade [Photo H]. But as a block plane they seem to work well. Kashi wood is very strong and resists splitting, and so there are seldom problems with cracks or splinters in the body. How is the blade holding up? But note: Japanese "block planes" differ from Western block planes, serving instead as small smoothing planes.
And, not to get all mystic, but the Zen-like experience and satisfaction of seeing a paper-thin ribbon of wood float out from a tool you carefully tuned is surprisingly rewarding. That said, if you're a guy who likes to chart his own course and is willing to work a little harder to get the information you need, there's no doubt that equivalently great work can be done with either set of tools. If not, any issues with the blade shifting side to side or popping out of the wedge? The angle of this cut is around 55 degrees and is not as deep as the blade groove. Remember to not burn the hard metal. Line L. Do the same with the chipbreaker, and mark its width centered inside the L Lines. Japanese planes are usually flat sawn, sometimes rift sawn. The spear planes, with their short, slightly curved blades at the end of a long handle, were drawn two-handed over the wood. They are wonderful to use once set up, but I do not like the expense of the blades or dealing with sharpening the hard steel and tapping out the back. This helps ensure a sharp cutting edge but also provides the foundation for a tight-fitting chip breaker. Wow i like it! Share it with us! I didnt' know that 'pull' planes existed. Make test cuts and adjust the blade until you get full-width, onion-skin-thin shavings that leave a smooth surface. Placing the blade on the Japanese planer.
Difficult? While the cost of a "mass-market" Japanese plane is less than some of the LNs, if you buy comparable quality, you find that Japanese planes are as expensive or more expensive than the equivalent LNs. Planes came into use in Japan much later than in Europe, sometime around the year 1500. With the depth of the blade almost set, continue to file the side grooves until they allow no more than 116 " of space for lateral blade adjustments [Photo F]. display: none !important;
We are using cookies to give you the best experience on our website. For the glue I used Titebond and clamped it to dry for 24 hours. Were pulling for ya. Yes. I have a couple Japanese planes from ebay. You want a smooth edge and polished surface so shavings slide up and out of the throat, but the edge doesn't need to be razor sharp. If the chip breaker rocks or "rattles" against the blade when applying pressure at the corners, file material from the point of the "ear" on the back where it contacts the blade [Photo G].
This is the first time. The easiest way to do this at the level of accuracy needed is to use a drill press and its depth stop to rough out the shape and then use a chisel to remove the waste. You might be disappointed if you choose the Japanese style plane simply to save a few dollars, though. 5
In-depth articles, up-close photography, and detailed illustrations. If we add a blade of high quality, we achieved a completely smooth finish.
If the halves do not align or the blade doesn't fit, chisel out the waste. UNLIMITED membership - Get access to it all. If you have any suggestions or questions just comment. You shouldn't be able to see any light between them at the cutting edge. Toshio Odate's book, Japanese Woodworking Tools: Their Tradition, Spirit, and Use, and a book called The Care and Use of Japanese Woodworking Tools (or something very similar to that -- I don't have the book in front of me right now) are pretty good for Japanese tools and planes. 2022 The Taunton Press, Inc. All rights reserved. Before glue up I rough sketched the outline onto the white oak. They minimise warping this way. Also, a hollow on the back of the blade reduces the amount of material to remove when flattening the backthe first step in the sharpening process [Photo D]. Awesome project. I am making a high angle plane at 65 degrees, although the normal blade angle is around 45 degrees. Then you must spend a lot of time and effort to fit infills to firm up the irons bedding. The "left" side, the side toward the center of the tree, is used for the sole of the plane, and the "right" side faces upward. You can always make it wider if you find you need too. This hollow spot is called the "shakumi" and because they are hand made, different with every iron smith and even every individual iron. Other than appearance, the most striking difference between these and Western planes is the direction of planing: Japanese planes cut on the pull stroke, similar to Japanese saws. As in chisels, we find hand planes of Western and Eastern tradition. 8 years ago Did you make this project? Note: these directions were documented in the Inomoto workshop in Sanjo, Japan, which specializes in the production of smoothing planes. Finally, the plane is finished. My chip breaker is half the length of the blade and is made of soft metal. In fact, when shopping for a Japanese hand plane, you'll find them categorized by the blacksmith's name.
With the eastern, we refer to Japanese hand planes, some fabulous tools for woodworking. To offset the brittleness and add mass that dampens vibration while planing, the blacksmith laminates a softer steel on top. Our biweekly podcast allows editors, authors, and special guests to answer your woodworking questions and connect with the online woodworking community.
Thus, these tools are for the final phase of furniture manufacture or wood structures. I had some plain sawn white oak left over from some stairs I will be using. However, the set-up mechanics and specific goals differ considerably. Im getting started in woodworking, and am concentrating on hand tools and small projects first. Consider one of these three other clear finishes for your next project. I find that laminating idea quite fascinating and was wondering if you have any other examples of it being used. And then you go down the line.
For hardwood, an angle of 42 degrees is recommended. I used a Ron Hock blade and you can use the same blade in any number of plane bodys as well as having fun using different woods to make your plane. Finally, flatten the back side of the front edge of the chip breaker and check the fit on the blade. For fine adjustments when fitting the iron to its bed, you pass the the iron over an oil-soaked pad. The maintenance is greater with a wooden plane, smoothing and flattening the belly. (pic #2). The thick end is 5/16" and the thin end is 3/16". Have a look at this video of our customer BergWerk how he made a DAI. After shaping, I used J.B. Weld to hold the three layers of metal together. Mark the position of the mouth on the under side, or sole, of the board you are going to use for the stock. And it is just in the properties of the blades where we find the main differences. IMHO there is much more expertise available (here, in books, and in classes and clubs) to help one use a Western plane, so since I live here I chose the tools most often used here. Line G. Now transfer the "thick" upper end of the iron square across the top of the plane. Since you're removing so little material, this process takes almost no time at all. Each product we feature has been independently selected and reviewed by our editorial team. Is the lamination holding up? In hardwoods, as you would expect, is harder to work and require better blades and greater dedication. I will be making a smoothing plane which is similar to a Stanley no. Comparing a Japanese planer next to a Western planer. Form the slight hollows [Drawing] using a card scraper or wide chisel until you see a thin line of light under a straightedge. Instead of 73,40 only 69.00 Only until end of month. They also require significantly more effort and work to "set up" before use. This website uses Google Analytics to collect anonymous information such as the number of visitors to the site, and the most popular pages. If the dai needs work, sand the bottom on a flat reference surface, such as a piece of float glass, until flat. e.g you're not gonna get any bows.
Another must do project :DIf you (like me) need some more instructions how to make the blade, look at this video for guidelines https://youtu.be/04EKQs04B4k. In those areas, a strip of wood about 1 - 1.5 cm is left in place and the rest of the sole is planed or scraped away slightly, to about the thickness of a piece of paper. Therefore, there is a wide variety of blades and more than 20 families of Japanese hand planes, designed to adapt to each type of straightening. We will find from basic versions for beginners up to high quality blue steel blades for experts. 1
It consists of basically two parts, sometimes four: the low wooden plane body, or stock, the very thick, slightly wedge-shaped iron, and sometimes a chip breaker and a retaining pin. The blade is comprised of a very thin layer of hard, high carbon steel forge welded to a large section of soft iron or soft, low carbon steel.
this is the login page for people who like and use Japanese tools. This stresses the dai as it will be during use, so check the bottom of the dai for flatness using a straightedge. Because they look different than steel-body Western planes, Japanese hand planes (kanna) may seem like primitive mystery tools used only by esoteric craftsmen. Reply Then lay your slightly wedge-shaped iron on the side of the body. 7 years ago 
I have no personal experience with either, except for Clifton's tiny (#400) shoulder plane -- it's superb! For Western style, I'd recommend Garrett Hack's The HandplaneBook and one (or more) of these three: Aldren Watson's Hand Tools: Their Ways and Workings, Peter Korn'sThe Woodworker's Guide to Hand Tools, or Andy Rae's Choosing and Using Hand Tools; all three have good hand plane sections. In pic #1, I got the one on the right(similar to jack plane) off eBay. Darken the blade back with a soft pencil, then test the fit. Sight along the sole to judge the blade protrusion and parallelism to the sole. 5 years ago. If it is possible, it is better to choose a hand plane with blue steel. Instead of 72,41 only 65.00 Only until end of month, Compatible with Juuma T-tracks Instead of 10,67 only 8.50 Only until end of month, Turn your work table, your workbench and your cabinets into mobile units! You'll be glad you did. That being said the Lie Neilsen planes are a joy to use and other than a little bit of sharpening they are ready to go right out of the box.
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